Cold-process bench

Saponis

Head-to-head

Shea Butter (Unrefined) vs Palm Kernel Oil

hard
hard

Substitution factor

NaOH SAP A 0.1280NaOH SAP B 0.1770A / B = 0.1280 / 0.1770

0.7232

Multiply your lye amount by 0.7232 when swapping Shea Butter (Unrefined) for Palm Kernel Oil.

Inverse 1.3828 when swapping Palm Kernel Oil for Shea Butter (Unrefined).

500 g swap · pure NaOH

500 g Shea Butter (Unrefined)
64.00 g NaOH
500 g Palm Kernel Oil
88.50 g NaOH
Lye_A = Lye_B × factor
88.50 × 0.7232 = 64.00
Reverse pair

Constants

SAP, iodine, INS

MetricShea Butter (Unrefined)Palm Kernel OilΔ A−B
NaOH SAP (pure)

0.1280

0.1770

-0.0490
KOH SAP (pure)

0.1790

0.2470

-0.0680
KOH SAP (90%)

0.1989

0.2744

-0.0756
Iodine value

60

18

+42
INS

116

227

-111
Max % of oils

15%

30%

-15
Hardness class

hard

hard

—
Trace

slows

accelerates

—
INCI (pre-sap)

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil

—
INCI NaOH salt

Sodium Shea Butterate

Sodium Palm Kernelate

—
INCI KOH salt

Potassium Shea Butterate

Potassium Palm Kernelate

—

Fatty acids

Eight-acid profile

MetricShea Butter (Unrefined)Palm Kernel OilΔ A−B
Lauric C12:0

0.0%

49.0%

-49.0
Myristic C14:0

0.0%

16.0%

-16.0
Palmitic C16:0

5.0%

8.0%

-3.0
Stearic C18:0

40.0%

2.0%

+38.0
Ricinoleic C18:1-OH

0.0%

0.0%

0.0
Oleic C18:1

48.0%

15.0%

+33.0
Linoleic C18:2

6.0%

2.0%

+4.0
Linolenic C18:3

0.0%

0.0%

0.0

Quality

Physical contribution

MetricShea Butter (Unrefined)Palm Kernel OilΔ A−B
Hardness

45.0

75.0

-30.0
Cleansing

0.0

65.0

-65.0
Conditioning

54.0

17.0

+37.0
Bubbly lather

0.0

65.0

-65.0
Creamy lather

45.0

10.0

+35.0
Longevity

45.0

10.0

+35.0