Spec sheet
Shea Butter (Unrefined)
Vitellaria paradoxa
hard
trace slows
max 15%
workhorse
01
Saponification & chemical constants
- NaOH SAP (pure)
- 0.1280g NaOH / g oil
- KOH SAP (pure)
- 0.1790g KOH / g oil
- KOH SAP (90% reagent)
- 0.1989g 90% KOH / g oil
- Iodine value
- 60g I₂ / 100 g
- INS
- 116KOH SAP − IV
02
Fatty acid spectrum
- LauricC12:00.0%
- MyristicC14:00.0%
- PalmiticC16:05.0%
- StearicC18:040.0%
- RicinoleicC18:1-OH0.0%
- OleicC18:148.0%
- LinoleicC18:26.0%
- LinolenicC18:30.0%
- UnlistedC8–C10+1.0%
- Saturated
- Monounsaturated
- Polyunsaturated
- Hydroxy
03
Physical contribution matrix
Hardness
Lauric + myristic + palmitic + stearic · target 29–54
Cleansing
Lauric + myristic · target 12–22
Conditioning
Oleic + linoleic + linolenic + ricinoleic · target 44–69
Bubbly lather
Lauric + myristic + ricinoleic · target 14–46
Creamy lather
Palmitic + stearic + ricinoleic · target 16–48
Longevity
Palmitic + stearic · target 25–50
Max 15% of oils
hardening
- Recommended maximum 15% of total oils.
- High palmitic/stearic — accelerates hardness and can crack if overused.
- Slows trace.
04
Legal INCI naming convention
Pre-saponification INCI
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Unsaponified oil remaining as superfat.
Post-saponification NaOH salt
Sodium Shea Butterate
Declared soap after sodium hydroxide saponification.
Post-saponification KOH salt
Potassium Shea Butterate
Declared soap after potassium hydroxide saponification.