Cold-process bench

Saponis

Oil library

Spec sheet

Cocoa Butter

Theobroma cacao

hard
trace slows
max 15%
workhorse
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01

Saponification & chemical constants

NaOH SAP (pure)
0.1370g NaOH / g oil
KOH SAP (pure)
0.1940g KOH / g oil
KOH SAP (90% reagent)
0.2156g 90% KOH / g oil
Iodine value
37g I₂ / 100 g
INS
157KOH SAP − IV

02

Fatty acid spectrum

  • LauricC12:0
    0.0%
  • MyristicC14:0
    0.0%
  • PalmiticC16:0
    28.0%
  • StearicC18:0
    33.0%
  • RicinoleicC18:1-OH
    0.0%
  • OleicC18:1
    35.0%
  • LinoleicC18:2
    3.0%
  • LinolenicC18:3
    0.0%
  • UnlistedC8–C10+
    1.0%
  • Saturated
  • Monounsaturated
  • Polyunsaturated
  • Hydroxy

03

Physical contribution matrix

Hardness

Lauric + myristic + palmitic + stearic · target 29–54

61.0

Cleansing

Lauric + myristic · target 12–22

0.0

Conditioning

Oleic + linoleic + linolenic + ricinoleic · target 44–69

38.0

Bubbly lather

Lauric + myristic + ricinoleic · target 14–46

0.0

Creamy lather

Palmitic + stearic + ricinoleic · target 16–48

61.0

Longevity

Palmitic + stearic · target 25–50

61.0

Max 15% of oils

hardening
  • Recommended maximum 15% of total oils.
  • High palmitic/stearic — accelerates hardness and can crack if overused.
  • Slows trace.

04

Legal INCI naming convention

Pre-saponification INCI

Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter

Unsaponified oil remaining as superfat.

Post-saponification NaOH salt

Sodium Cocoa Butterate

Declared soap after sodium hydroxide saponification.

Post-saponification KOH salt

Potassium Cocoa Butterate

Declared soap after potassium hydroxide saponification.

Head-to-head substitution

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